2017 Bodegas Taron Territorio Taron DOC 12x750ml

About the Wine

While many wine enthusiasts are spending $100+ on bottles from the big Rioja names, a small, family-run winery from the northern Rioja villages is crafting wines that rival these legends—but at a fraction of the price.

Why pay hundreds for the big names when you can get exceptional Rioja from a hidden gem that delivers the same intensity and old-school mastery without the premium markup?

Bodegas Tarón sits in the absolute middle of nowhere—the northernmost edge of Rioja where the Obarenes Mountains meet the sky and tourists never venture. Four tiny villages—Sajazarra, Tirgo, Villaseca, and Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón. These aren’t your typical vacation spots or Instagram hotspots. These are historic villages, where medieval castles still stand guard over vineyards that have been making wine since long before Columbus set sail for the New World.

The story starts with rebellion. A few years back, the farming families in these four villages looked around and realized something infuriating: they were growing some of the finest grapes in all of Rioja, but selling them off to big producers who'd blend them into anonymous bottles and slap corporate labels on them. Meanwhile, those same corporate giants were charging premium prices for wines that weren't any better than what these families could make themselves.

So they made a pact. Pool their best vineyards—nearly 700 hectares of vines averaging over 50 years old—and start making their own wine. Not to get rich, not to build a wine empire, but to honor the generations of knowledge passed down through their families. This wasn't some Silicon Valley startup with venture capital funding. This was four villages saying "enough" to an industry that had forgotten what authentic winemaking looked like.

The families behind Tarón aren't household names, and they like it that way. They're third and fourth-generation grape growers who know every vine by sight, who can predict the weather by watching how their grandfather's favorite vineyard responds to morning mist. They've watched the wine world transform around them—corporate buyouts, consultant winemakers, focus groups determining flavor profiles—while they just kept doing what their families had always done.

These aren't the neat, tidy vineyard rows you see in wine magazines. These are gnarly, bush-trained vines that look like they've been through a war, clinging to rocky clay-limestone soils at 700 meters above sea level. The families at Tarón hand-select only their most ancient, most stubborn vines—the ones that produce pathetically small yields but grapes so concentrated they practically vibrate with intensity.

Now, here's where it gets frustrating. While some $100 bottles of Rioja certainly deserve their price tag, the truth is, the 2017 Territorio Tarón is made with the same care, from vines just as old, on soils just as historic, by families with the same generational expertise.

The difference isn't quality—it's marketing budgets. While the big houses spend millions on brand building, distributor relationships, and global expansion, the families at Tarón spend their money on things like hand-harvesting in small trailers that can navigate slopes too steep for machines, fermenting in pristine stainless steel, and aging their wine for two full years in new American oak barrels followed by another year and a half in bottle before release.

This is a direct import, which means it bypasses the usual labyrinth of importers, distributors, and retailers who typically triple wine prices between Spain and your local shop. No corporate overlords deciding which markets get priority. No committee meetings determining optimal price points. Just families who've been making wine longer than most countries have existed, finally deciding to put their own name on the bottle.

The 2017 vintage produced just 34,325 bottles—a rounding error compared to the millions of bottles churned out by industrial producers. When it's gone, it's gone. There's no ramping up production or finding additional fruit sources. This is what these four villages produced in 2017, nothing more, nothing less.

Territorio Tarón isn't just a new wine—it's a love letter to four villages and their ancient vines. This 100% Tempranillo celebrates the soul of Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón, Sajazarra, Tirgo, and Villaseca, crafted exclusively from low-vigor, goblet-trained vines over 35 years old that cling to hillsides and whisper stories of exceptional vintages.

While the wine world obsesses over famous names and inflated prices, these four villages just keep doing what they've always done: making wine that captures the soul of their land, one bottle at a time. They're not trying to conquer export markets or build lifestyle brands. They're just trying to make wine their grandfathers would be proud of.

The smart money isn't chasing the next hyped release or trophy bottle. The smart money is finding wines like this—authentic, uncompromising, and priced like the secret they deserve to remain. Because once word gets out about what's happening in these forgotten Spanish hills, those days of under-the-radar pricing are numbered.

Aging: 24 months in new American oak barrels. In bottle for at least a year and a half

Tasting Notes

100% Tempranillo. Cherry-red color, with some ruby glints, medium-high robe. Serious, elegant and quite complex nose, clean and frank. High intensity with a predominance of ripe fruit compote with a hint of vanilla and a very fine liquorice atabacado giving it complexity. The entry on the palate is powerful, fleshy, with good structure and acidity, with tannin present and round. The finish is long. It has ageing potential and a persistent, ample and pleasant aftertaste.

Reviews

~94 International Wine Review

Rich, deep nose full of ripe blackberries, graphite, chocolate, pine needles and spices. A touch of mushrooms in the background. Full-bodied and properly structured, with creamy, plush tannins and a long, juicy finish. Complex and starting to open up. Drink or hold. ~93 James Suckling

Generous spicy dark fruit aromas with well judged oaky nuances. Sweet and mellowed tannins. Rich and very tasty. ~92 Decanter

~92 Tim Atkin, Master of Wine. 

Color: Deep cherry. Aroma: Ripe fruit, dried herbs, creamy oak, smoke. Palate: Ripe fruit, spices, ripe tannins. Style: Smoky, mature. Aroma: Black fruit, creamy oak, dried herbs, earthy. Palate: Structured, flavorful. ~91 Guía Peñín